My Travels

Israel

2009-07-29T00:42:00.000-07:00

It's crazy to try and sum 3 weeks of experiences in Israel in one posting, but I will give a quick run-down on the some of the highlights with the assistance of some photos along the way. The first week or so of our time here was spent taking organized tours, which is quite a long way off from the way I was traveling in Latin America. Every morning after training with our respective teams, an air conditioned bus would take us away to a different destination, tour guide, box lunch, and all admission prices included. It was actually quite nice, and a incredible opportunity to see the country, go to museums, and learn a lot a long the way. This first photo is Jerusalem and the golden dome you see is the Temple Mount, the holiest sight for the worlds three most popular religions. My team and I stayed on the beach in Tel Aviv. It was an amazing location, we were on the beach as soon as we stepped out the back door, and were treated with the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea each night.

Opening ceremonies for the Maccabiah games, (Jewish Olympics) was an amazing experience. We walked into the stadium with the US delegation of over 900 athletes, the largest there aside from Israel of course, and there were over 25,000 people filling the stands cheering, waving flags, and supporting everyone. A huge show followed, including speeches by the president who of course urged us all to move to Israel.

Another day trip, this time to the Sea Of Gaile. Fed by the Jordan river, this the birthplace of Mary, and nearby towns of Nazareth and Bethlehem obviously have significant historical implications. We drove down and spent the day on the beach, swimming, boating, and kayaking.

Photo with our Guide, I was doing the job of holding up the map at this point- as discussed some border issues.

Masada, one of my favorite places in all of Israel. Built high above the Dead Sea, it was the last outpost of Jewish resistance for fleeing Zealots after the Roman sacking of Jerusalem in AD 66. It is an incredible work of design, considering it is on the top of a mountain, in the middle of the desert, over 2000 years old, and they were able to design a system to bring fresh water to the top for drinking and bathing.

The Dead Sea. The lowest point on Earth. The water is incredibly, incredibly salty, which causes you to float. You simply cannot sink in the Dead Sea, and as you can see in the photo everyone is just simply floating. It is a very cool experience, although quite painful if you have scratches or cuts! Also, you do not want to get it in your eyes, which happened right before this picture was taken!

My first Camel!

Old Jerusalem. I thought the ruins in Peru were old, we are now talking about ruins that our 1,000's of years old. Something that was built three to four thousands years ago and is still around and functional is just simply baffling. The old city is beautiful with many walls and structures still intact.

This is a picture of the Western Wall (or wailing Wall) a very religious sight. Built about 2,000 years ago it is the only remaining piece of an old temple that was destroyed and is now the sight of thousands of visitors daily, who come to express their grief and to pra. Many slip written prayers into the cracks of the walls, as these are supposed to have a better chance of being answered.

A couple Israeli friends that I have made.

A couple of pictures of our game against Finland. We needed to win this game to advance out of group, but despite the win we still came up short of advancing because of goal differential. We beat England in a exhibition match. Beat Estonia. Lost to Argentina and Brazil. This picture is one of the four goals I scored in the game against Finland.

This is where the term "breaking someones ankles" comes from. Notice his left foot. Not a good idea to try to guard me.

Team photo before one of the games.

The "Year of Ian"

2009-07-01T16:26:00.000-07:00

I last left you in Costa Rica, and have been battling a crippling case of writers block since. Not true. Maybe writers laziness. Or maybe I convinced myself if I didn't write about heading home and ending the Latin American adventure, it wouldn't really happen. Didn't work, it ended. Here is a quick recap of the last 6 weeks and a preview of what is to come.

La Fortuna, Costa Rica. Watching lava pour down the perfect cone shaped mountain during the night, and the steam and smoke drift from the summit of the volcano in the morning before the clouds rolled in for the day. Made a new travel buddy and crossed into Nicaragua in the middle of the Swine Flu panic. I passed my brief Swine Flue exam and spent the next few weeks being awed by the natural and colonial beauty that is Nicaragua. Beautiful stretches of beach on the Pacific Ocean, the magic, colors, and splendor of the colonial buildings lining the cobble stoned streets in Granada, and of course one of my personal favorites, Isla Ompetpe. Imagine a lake bigger than all the great lakes in the US, add surfable waves, soft sand beaches, sharks, and two twin volcano's that after thousands of years of lava flow between the two, connected them and formed an island. From the shores of the lake you can see the twin peaks rising out of the water, and it's hard to imagine you haven't been transported into a fairy tale. Days passed easily on the beaches, hiking the mountain peaks, and swinging in hammocks on organic coffee, banana, and chocolate farms.

From Nicaragua I took a flight to Seattle, barely to be recognized by my dad at the airport. Long hair and a beard does wonders. hahah The adjustments back to living in the US were made easier by 1 on 1 tackle football at the park with my nephew, unlimited acsess to Peanut Butter, moms home cooking, hanging out and going to soccer games with dad, seeing all my best friends, and spending time with a new one I met out of the country but have known all along. Seattle was as just as much as a traveling experience as the rest of my trip, one I really enjoyed, and after spending a few weeks there really felt like I got to to know the city from a new perspective. A few days in San Diego to visit even more friends that I haven't seen, and tonight I head out for uncharted lands.

My first stop is Israel, where I will be playing for the USA Futsal (soccer) team in the Maccabiah Games. A chance to play a sport I love, while representing my country and heritage, in an international tournament with over 8,000 athletes from over 60 countries, all taking place in a country I have never been to. What else could I ask for? I hate to make specific plans after Israel, as we all saw the folly of that with the name of this blog. (Did I really think I was only going to be in Peru?) But, I refuse to be in the Middle East, so close to so many more incredible places and not seem them first hand. So, in short, vacation is over for both of us. Get your reading glasses ready, because I have a feeling the posts will be coming hot and heavy starting in the next few days.
Quick shout outs to people I love, people who have given me support throughout this year of Ian thus far, and have helped me in my travels, re-adjustments, and self discovery.

Nick for doing it first and understanding more than anyone...Tony for taking my advice and allowing me to take my own...Jenna who walked next to me on my path of discovery (and on alot of the same streets), my family for the support and for always providing a home, all the wonderful people who took me in to their homes and fed me across South and Central America, I hope I can return the favor one day, the lady at Bank of America who finally understood I needed my new card sent to Colombia not Cambodia, Adam for being all the things a great friend should be and the voice of reason when one is needed, Ben for giving me a home and a friend in SD, Drew for pushing me up the mountain and pointing out that I dropped my water bottle, Sim for helping me deal with my hair and and giving me her leftovers, and of course the Universe for making it all happen! Next stop Tel Aviv.....

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Tortuguero, Costa Rica

2009-05-10T19:19:00.000-07:00

After a 5 hour motor canoe ride through a series of interconnecting canals I arrived at Tortuguero. On the Northeast coast of Costa Rica, wedged between the Atlantic's black sand beaches and a series of connecting fresh water canals, Tortugero is the rainiest of rain forests and home to an abundance of wildlife, including nesting turtles on the ocean beaches in the evenings.

Early morning tours of the canals and late night visits to the beaches take up your time here, and I was fortunate enough to see a lot of wildlife, to name a few, snakes, tons of different kinds of monkeys, frogs, turtles, crocodiles, birds, lizards, and fish.

Friendly snake

Soft black sand beaches

Look Monkeys...

The Canals...

Islas Boca Del Toro

2009-05-10T18:22:00.000-07:00

Just off the Caribbean coast of Panama is the archipelago of Bocas Del Toro. There are 6 main islands, and tons if tiny uninhabited islands. Each day I would take a different water taxi from my home base island to explore a new island, finding new beaches not in the guide book, eating coconuts for lunch, and swimming and snorkeling in the warm crystal clear turquoise waters. It really was a Caribbean paradise.

Untouched beach....

Main street...

Doing some Yoga...well trying.

Water Taxi to different beach

Panama City and The Worlds Most Amazing Canal

2009-05-10T18:01:00.000-07:00

Truly one of the worlds most amazing engineering marvels, it's hard not to be awestruck watching the massive freighters being raised and lowered on Mira Flores Locks. Cutting right through the continental divide, the canal stretches nearly 80 kilometers from the Pacific to the Atlantic and an incredible 14, 000 ship pass through the canal each year, today's ships are all built with the Canal's dimensions in mind. The average fee per ship is $30,000 dollars, although someone swam through in 1928 and only had to pay .36 cents. Skewing the average a little isn't he

Mud Volcano

2009-04-17T07:33:00.000-07:00

It was certainly the easiest volcano I have climbed thus far on my trip, but it certainly didn't make it any less fun. Only about 50 feet tall, and with stairs leading to the Crater at the top I summited in about 3 minutes. A long cry from previous 10 hours climbs. Once at the Summit, you strip down to your shorts, and with the help of someone already inside, carefully dip and slide your body into the luke warm mud that fills the volcano.

It was the strangest feeling, you are incredible buoyant in the mud, which was really really thick, almost like melted chocolate, and it made it very difficult to move.You just kind of bob there, and with the slightest touch from someone glide off in any given direction. You can´t touch the bottom, as I imagine the mud goes down to the center of the earth, but you can´t quite push youself down into the mud either. The best option was too just lay down on your back, laugh, soak up the curative minerals said to be in the mud, and relax.

New Best Friend

2009-04-14T09:33:00.000-07:00

There was no canyon explored, mountain climbed, beach explored, or coral reef seen. But, there was an Ian with half of his beverage spilled on his shirt, some still dripping from his chin (if you look closely you can see it) and best of all a Sloth in my arms. Substance enough for a post I do believe.

Scuba Diving the Colombian Coast

2009-04-14T09:23:00.000-07:00

While previous adventures have taken me to personally unprecedented heights above sea level, this next adventure would be just the opposite, as I would push the boundaries of depth under the sea.

Within minutes of walking into the scuba diving office I was setup watching the 3 hour instructional video and shortly after I was in the pool to begin mastering the skills that would be tested for my scuba diving certification. An avid snorkeler in San Diego, and with a previous dive that I remember well under my belt, I breezed through the pool course and was ready to hit the ocean the next day at 8am.

From the minute you back flip off the boat into the ocean, you are transformed into a different world. You don´t see, hear, move, or even breath the same. (Water reflects the light so everything appears bigger and closer, and sound travels faster and sounds louder under water.) Over the next 3 days and six dives I perfected the skills that would allow me to receive my certification, scuba dive on my own in the future, and in the process witness a completely new world.

The coral reefs here are covered in brain coral, which just as it sounds, looks like giant brains covering the rocks. All different colors and sizes they were amazing. The coral is home to hundreds of different kinds of fish and I swam along side eels, turtles, and barracuda's as well. Swimming with a 100 feet of water above you and not being able to see the surface is an amazing feeling. Gliding along the water examining, watching, and exploring, enjoying the ability to swim up, down, forward or backwards, it is as I imagine flying must feel. I can´t wait to get back in!

Cartagena and the Caribbean

2009-04-01T15:16:00.000-07:00

Cartagena. Colombia with a Caribbean flavor. I stepped off the bus into the most intense heat and humidity I have experienced thus far in my travels. It´s generally accepted that you will be sweating the whole time you are in Cartagena, so the sooner you accept it, the better off you will be. Fine with me, just accept the fact I will not be wearing a shirt. And spending a lot of time at the beach cooling off in the Caribiean Ocean.

Located at the northern tip of the country, Cartagena was once a very important harbor for the Spanish, as they shipped off all their pillaged goods from all over South America back to Spain. The city quickly became very wealthy and very large target for pirate attacks. As the number of attacks and sieges on the city increased, the construction of the Walled City began.

Stunted by numerous pirate attacks and attempted invasions, the entire wall took many years to complete and is now known simply as the "old town", a huge section of modern day Cartagena still rests behind 11 kilometers of cement walls, forts and auxiliary doors. After completion in 1756, the city was simply impossible to take cover.

Century old cannons still line the outer walls facing the ocean, and the majority of the architecture and churches within the walls are preserved from the 1700s.

Cartagena is a big city though, and holding true to my pattern of travel it was time to get away for a few days. I took a boat to Playa Blanca, a small Caribbean island off the coast for my own personal version of “Cast Away”. I took my essentials, tent, food and water, sunscreen, and books for entertainment, as there are not hotels, permanent structures, or electricity on the island. The water was the most incredible turquoise blue I have ever seen, and I spent my days reading on the beach, swimming, trying to touch sunsets, and trying not to drink all my fresh water before the boat came back 3 days later to pick me up.

Southern and Central Colombia

2009-03-17T14:15:00.000-07:00

There are signs all over Colombia that say,

¨The only danger is you will want to stay."

It couldn't´t be more true. Colombia as of right now, has the perfect balance of a strong infrastructure for tourism and being an amazing place to visit without an overflow of tourists. Suffering from negative Hollywood stereotypes and a history of violence has kept the masses away, and allowed the rest of us to soak up all the pleasure on our own.

Tourism is still fresh in Colombia, and as a result many Colombians are as curious as the tourists are. They won´t hesitate to strike up a conversation over an offered cup of coffee, asking about our culture, our thoughts, and our way of life. It is very refreshing to have people being nice to you, without wanting trying to sell you something.

I would also like to add here that Colombia is the only place I have seen people walking the streets with a backpack sized thermos strapped onto their back, selling cups of coffee. It´s a funny sight, but I bet their doing more business than your local real estate agent.

Bogota is a massive city settled along a mountain range. Here are some pictures of the city and looking down on the city from one of the mountains.

The plaza Major.

Outside of Bogota one of the biggest Salt Mines in world has been transformed into a tourist attraction, with the addition of an underground Cathedral made entirely out of salt. The Cathedral is completlly inside of the salt mine, and is discovered after walking deep inside the mountain. An estimated 80% of all Colombians are said to have consumed salt from this specific salt mine. The following pictures are from deep inside the mine, including the cross, which too was carved from salt, and is over 100 feet tall.

After a couple of weeks spent in cities, it was time to head into the country for some fresh air, camping, and of course excitement. Villa De leyva, a few hours outside of Bogota is one of the oldest towns in Colombia and still boasts many Colonial structures, cobbled streets, and old buildings and churches. It is also a great jumping off point for waterfalls and caverns, and my next adventure- rappelling.

We set off at 8am to find the "lost cavern". We followed the stream, which at times was a river, up the mountain for a few hours. Stopping for lunch, we reached a lookout point that offered an amazing view back down onto the small town. After lunch we pushed on, moving paralell to the river, and soon we lost sight of it. After another hour we reached the top of the caynon, which I was convinced was a cave down into nothingness. He assured me once we rappelled down, we would be able to walk back down the river and climb out of the cavern. I wasen´t convinced, but nevertheless went over the side of the cave and rappelled down into nothingness. Sure enough once we reached the bottom of the canyon, cavern, cave, whatever, we were able to hike back up and do it again!

Pictures on the way to the canyon, descending the canyon, and in the canyon.

Leaving Medellin today and heading north to the coast. Caribbean here I come!

The ceiling of Ecuador

2009-02-21T12:04:00.000-08:00

Cotopaxi. The second highest mountain in Ecuador and the tallest active volcano in the world. The summit rises to 19,347 ft, and the top 5,000 feet of the mountain is permanently covered in glacial ice and snow. Another summit attempt without proper acclimatization. Hey, I never said I didn´t like a challenge. Unfortunately, this would be more challenging than I ever could of imagined. We drove to within an hour and a half of base camp and already at plus 15k feet, just the hour walk from the car to the refuge was a challenge. This was not going to be easy.

On the way to base camp. Before crampons and ice axe.

Once we arrived at base camp we did a review of our equipment and practiced some techniques for climbing the glacier; how to avoid injuring yourself with the crampons and ice axe, how to rescue a fellow climber, and how to slow yourself down with your ice axe when you are sliding down the mountain uncontrollably. All useful skills. After training we sat down for dinner and tea around 6:30pm and headed to bed by 7:30pm, as we would be waking 5 hours later for our ascent.

I spent the night in the familiar grip of altitude sickness. No sleep, fever and chills, and a paralyzing headache. Without any appetite, I forced down two handfuls of granola for breakfast, and begin getting prepared. The temperature was in the teens and with the wind chill, it was surely below zero. We gathered our gear, special fleece pants and jacket, gloves and mittens, hat and face mask, hiking boots and crampons, harness and head lamp, and of course our ice axe. We each brought one bottle of water and a chocolate candy bar. Why I thought it would be enough to sustain me as I hiked 8 hours straight up into the darkness, I don´t know.

Five us begin the climb, but only three of us would make it to the summit. The climber from Portugal didn´t make it out of base camp. The Brazilian turned back after two hours. The other American, Frenchie, and myself would push ourselves and each other for the next ten hours testing the limit of stamina, endurance, and willpower.

The climb takes between 6-8 hours and begins at midnight in the pitch dark, for two reasons. Number one, without the sun, the ice and snow remains frozen and is (supposedly) easier to climb. It also reduces the risk of avalanche during the descent of the mountain, as we will be hopefully descending around 8am, allowing only a few hours of sun exposure to the ice and snow.

We were roped in as a group of four. The guide, myself, the American, and Frenchie bringing up the rear. It was slow, slow going. No step was wasted, no movement not planned or thought out. Each step was a kick as hard as you could manage up and into the ice with your toe. It was as steep as climbing a ladder. With your crampon safely wedged into the ice, and pushing off with your ice axe, you would lift off that foot and repeat the action with your other foot. Fail to kick hard enough and when pushing off, you slide back down two steps.

Step, take two breathes, step, take two breathes, step, take two breathes. This was our rhythm. Break it, try to take two quick steps, or only one breath in between steps and you would be laying down gasping for air. It takes 20 to 30 seconds to get your wind back, and in that time your body temperature drops significantly. Your legs and and torso start shaking uncontrollably, you begin to lose feeling in your fingers and toes, and you know this is what freezing to death feels like.

Back on our feet, we set off again. Back to our rhythm. Back to the climb. Back to the pain. A tug on the rope indicates someone needs a rest or a drink of water. No words our spoken, it uses up to much energy. Only the occasional grunt or swear word indicates we are still capable of speaking. I take a bite of my chocolate bar, it´s frozen solid. I sip from my water bottle. I watch another climber throw up. I accidentally drop my water bottle, and can´t imagining backtracking two yards to get it. I´ll be drinking snow from here on out.

The clouds parted and we spent the last four hours of the climb under a clear sky. The stars as bright as spotlights at 18k feet, helped guide us we continued our march upwards. The Sun soon began to break the horizon, and as it did one side of the mountain remained as dark as night, with the stars and moon still dominating the sky. The other side was streaked with pink and orange as the sun begun to make it´s presence felt.

We were within an hour of the summit and I was done. I couldn´t take another step. I was freezing, I was sleepy, I was sick, and I was exhausted both mentally and physically. I couldn't convince myself to go any further. I wanted to close my eyes, I wanted to sleep, I wanted to be off the mountain.

¨I got nothing left¨ I said, I was ready to accept to defeat.

¨I know, I don´t know if I can go any further.¨The other American replied.

And for some reason, someone else acknowledging how hard it was. How difficult it was, gave me a lift. I would make it, I convinced myself. That was before the 90 degree wall of torture showed up however.

It was the last major obstacle to the summit. A 40 foot climb straight up, climb the wall, and from there it was a relatively easy 50 yard hike to the summit. The guide went up first, and I was up next. My crampons wouldn´t stick into the ice, and for every foot I puled myself up with the ice axe, my feet would just slide back down. I was creating a cave into the wall every time I took a step.

The sun was shining directly on me, and the ice had lost it´s firmness. One step up, two steps up, then slide back down 4 or 5 steps. I couldn´t do it. I slide all the way back down to the bottom and moved to my left 10 feet. The same thing. A wave of frustration and anger washed over me, as I continually couldn´t get my feet to stick in the ice. What was I supposed to do? I was exerting energy I didn´t have, trying to push threw the wall that was both literally and figuratively in front of me. Was this as far I would go?

With tears of frustration in my eyes, I gave it one last go. I was nearly climbing sideways, searching with my feet for the firmest ice way off the left or right of my hands. I was making progress, with one last burst I pushed for the top. Pulling myself up by the rope in one hand, the other hacking away with my ice axe, and using my knees to guide me up. I crested the hill, rolled down it and immediately feel asleep. I have never in my life been so absolutely gutted. I had nothing, nothing left. I was woken up once Frenchie crested and we walked together the last 30 minutes to the summit, where the most spectacular views awaited us.

At the summit. Close to death.

Video taken at the summit.

Alive and well a couple days later.

Special fleece jacket and pants, gloves and mittens, special snow hiking boots with crampons, and of course our hanresses, as we would be roped together in teams of 3.

fev

´t kn
power

Breath taking...

2009-02-21T09:21:00.001-08:00

Hearing talk of one of the most incredible sights in Ecuador, hidden deep in the mountains, surrounded by indigenous villages, and not another tourist in sight, led me on quite a journey...

First I had to take a bus from Banos, where I was jumping off bridges and trekking down to waterfalls, to Latagunga. Where? Exactly. In Lataguna, I was dropped off at a random corner in town. No bus terminal exists. An hour after wondering around and asking people for directions, I found the corner where the bus for Zumbahua picks people up. Huh? Exactly. 5 hours after starting out from Banos, I was again dropped off on a random corner in the small town of Zumbahua. There was nobody in sight and I had no idea how to get up to the tiny village of Quilotoa 15 kilometers further up the mountain. So, with no options I took a seat on the corner and waited for someone, anyone, to appear.

(Side note: These buses that I were on were not normal tourist buses. They were filled with native indigenous people. Many of whom brought their animals on the bus with them. One little girl, despite herself, couldn´t stop touching my curly blond hair. I don´t think she had ever seen anything like it. Every time I would drift off to sleep I would wake up with her hand on my head, or peaking at me from her seat. I snapped a couple pictures of her.)

It wasen´t long before a kid pulled up in his pickup truck and asked if I needed a lift up the mountain. An hour later, and 6 hours after boarding my first bus of the day I was dropped off in Quiltoa, a tiny indigenous village of about 80 residents, where everyone speaks Quechua, some Spanish, and of course no English. I was met by a nice woman who offered a bed in her house, dinner that night, and breakfast the next morning for $8. I hastily agreed, dropped off my backpack in my room, grabbed my coat, as it was quite chilly at 15 thousand feet, and walked the 20 yards to the crater rim for one of the most absolutely incredible sights I have ever seen.

Almost 800 years ago after a major eruption, the cone of the volcano collapsed, leaving a perfectly symmetrical crater surrounded by mountains on all sides. Dissolving minerals and sulfuric content cause the water to become an astonishing turquoise color. The lake is over 800 feet deep.

My host for the night.

Incredible.

Deep thoughts.

Couldn´t hold the serious face for long.

It was really big!

Holyyyyy Shiiiiiiiiiittttt

2009-02-21T08:40:00.000-08:00

My travel rule number 1. Say yes to things I would normally say no too. Despite this rule, I didn´t hesitate to immediately say no when asked if I wanted to ¨bungee-swing" off the bridge we were standing on.

Looking over the bridge into the river some 100 plus feet below, scores of scenarios went through my head, most involving a trip to the hospital at best. A small crowd began to form as it was obvious I was thinking of jumping, and they all wanted to see the action up close. I kept hearing a voice over and over in my head. Do it. Don´t be a whimp. Do it. Don´t be a whimp. Wait, that wasen´t a voice in my head, that was my friend Drew with some "positive" encouragement.

I asked Drew what he thought the chances of me dying were. I told myself if he put the odds at under 15% I was going to jump. He answered with a reassuring 7%, and shortly thereafter I was getting strapped into the harness and was stepping over the railing of the bridge. My harness was connected to a bungee that was connected to a higher bridge directly in front of the bridge I was standing on. So once I stepped off the bridge, I would free fall until the slack tightened on the bungee, at which point my momentum would swing me forward- and back and forth I would go.

My heart was beating 1000 miles an hour, my legs were shaking uncontrollably, and I couldn´t stop smiling. Eyes closed, hands clenched in a death grip on the rope, I stepped off the side of the bridge into nothing....

Watch this video...

After surviving the bridge jumping incident, we continued exploring further into the Ecuadorian highlands searching for waterfalls. Here is some of what we found....

Peru in the rearview...

2009-02-12T12:39:00.001-08:00

A country that has provided many firsts. To name a couple:

In Peru I am tall. I have to duck to see myself in the mirror in bathrooms, I crouch down to be seen through peepholes in doors, and if I want to wash my hair, you got it, I have to bend at the waist in the shower. I have slept on beds where my feet hang of the end and ducked going through doorjambs.

In Peru I can speak Spanish. I always felt hopelessly handicapped unable to speak Spanish. I tried buying books, CD´s, and downloading podcast. Didn´t work. Scoured the web for a pill I could take that would enable me to learn Spanish. Couldn´t find one. What about a direct upload to my brain like in the Matrix? Dosen´t exist yet. What does work though, is complete immersion. When you need food, a place to sleep, or something to drink. You learn how to say it. When you are cold, need a bus ticket, or want to thank someone for going out of their way for you. You learn it. When you need to buy more stomach medication from the Pharmacy, ask someone what the name of a fruit you just ate is so you can find it again, or negotiate a cab ride. You learn it. When need the ball passed to you because your open, want your picture taken in front of gigantic rock, or want ask someone to dance. You learn it. It´s an amazing feeling to be able to communicate, be understood, and understand a new language, and it´s accompanying culture.

In Peru I successfully sweet talked and bribed a border guard. With an expired Visa, I new I would I need to pay $1 for each day I was late leaving the country. What I didn´t know was I was supposed to do this at a Bank and bring the recite to the border patrol office. Sitting in the corner at 1:30 in the morning, while the rest of people on the bus sailed through immigration and facing the possibility of my bus continuing on to Ecuador without me, inspired some quick thinking. Sweat dripping down my forehead, "I understand I need to pay the bank $1 for each day I was late leaving the country, but I also heard (Strong eye contact here) I could pay double at the actual border, and everything would be okay." Hint of a smile on his face, "You know what son, I heard that too. Why don´t we get you back on that bus."

In Peru I have eaten Chicken hearts on a stick, scooped up a chicken foot that was hiding at the bottom of my soup bowel, and tasted a chicken kidney. Chewed on an Alpaca, and had french fries with my Guinea Pig. I have accepted dinner invitations from strangers, gotten into cars with people I barely even know, and partied for two days in a row with people I did. I have learned to tell time by the sun and clouds, have lost all desire for hot showers, and can´t finish a meal without a cup of tea.

A view from my Hostal in Mancora, Peru where I have been for the last few weeks. Yes, the ocean is that close. Yes, you can throw a rock at it it´s so close. Yes, you can hear the waves at night while you are sleeping. Yes, they served fresh cerviche everyday for $1.50

Mancora, Peru

2009-01-21T10:40:00.000-08:00

First the bad news. I arrived at 5am in the morning after an overnight bus trip. Upon arrival, I settled on the first hostel I walked into, as I was exhausted and just needed to sleep. Unfortunately, it was not the cleanest of places and upon waking the next morning to begin my regiment of beach runs, I noticed I was in the midst of an allergic reaction.

Thus, I soon added the following to my vernacular in Spanish, which I used at the local Pharmay.

"Look at the red dots covering my body. Please for the love of God give me something to make them go away."

"No, it´s not from Mosquito's, I think there were tiny bugs in my bed, or less likely, but still possible, that I am having a reaction to the cactus needles that had been lodged in my hand for the last 10 days, from a previous rock climbing accident."

Then I remember a similar incident that I had erased from my memory while I was in Germany. I similar skin reaction. Convinced it was bed bugs, I promptly moved out, took several pills, applied creams, and have had only fun sense.

How long have we been here, I don´t know. Has it been 2 days? A week? More? It´s hard to tell that time even passes here. Everyday feels like yesterday, simplicity, bliss, ease, freedom, happiness. What do I do? What do I do! What do I do... Days are spent eating fresh cerviche, playing soccer on the beach, floating in the ocean, going for beach runs, learning Spanish, catching fish with my hands with the local kids, laying in the hammock, drinking fresh squeezed mango, passion, pineapple, and papaya juice, tanning my body, counting the waves, eating delicious new fruits not found in our world. Nights are spent salsa dancing, watching sunsets, eating ice cream, counting the stars, searching for the moon, learning more Spanish, and laughing. Always laughing.

Paragliding!!

2009-01-06T14:09:00.000-08:00

After being caged up in a bus for 20 hours with a broken DVD player, stomach cramps, and a breakfast that even I wouldn´t eat, it was time to spread my wings. Naturally, I mean that in both a fugitive and literal sense, but first for the literal....

The Miraflores district in Lima is built into the side of a cliff overlooking the ocean. It is a beautiful place, and a very tranquil distraction from the overwhelming crowded city just a few blocks in from the ocean. The direct translation is literally, "look at the flowers", and I would do just that from about 4oo feet in the air.

From the time the cash was placed in his hand, we were literally airborne less than 3 minutes later. Just enough time to strap on my harness and helmet. No waiver, no instructions, no "in case this happens, you do this, briefing" just an introduction, and a yell to run towards the edge of the cliff.

As we jumped from the cliffs edge, the wind quickly swooped us up and we began our ascent to the heavens. We flew parallel to the ocean, sometimes over the cliffs, sometimes over the ocean, but all the while over the tallest buildings of Lima. The view was beautiful, and it was exactly like I always felt flying would be if I were a superhero. Peacefull...effortless...amazing.... I could feel the cool wind on my face, see the smile and excitement on the other riders faces as we passed them by. To be over 350 feet high looking down on the city, the ocean, the beach, it was exhilarating, it was awesome, it was great not to be on the bus!!

The Inka Trail to Machu Picchu

2008-12-22T10:18:00.000-08:00

Quite possibly the most famous trail in the world, the Inka Trail begins at Kilometer 82 in the Sacred Valley and finishes at Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Inka´s located on a remote mountain top in the middle of the Andes mountains. It was 4 of the most amazing days of my life.

We were packed and ready to go. There were 6 of us in our group, groups range from 6 to 25, so we lucked out in that department. Only 500 people are allowed to enter the trail per day, and generally 200 are tourists and 300 are porters. The porters carried the tents, food, and cooking supplies.

Each time we stopped for lunch or dinner, our tents would be set up and hot food would be cooking in the tent kitchen, it was amazing. We had to carry our own backpacks with our sleeping bags and mattress, snacks, clothes, personal items, ect.

The trail begins....It would take us over 3 mountain peaks, each slightly more challenging then the next, along valleys, across rivers and streams, through the Jungle, around lakes, next to magnificent waterfalls, right through the mountains, and would lead us to 4 different Inca Archaeological sights along the way. Inca lookout towers, agriculture centers, check points, and towns would begin to prepare us for what we would see the final morning with the sunrise.

Crossing rivers....

Climbing from the valley....(Yes that´s the trail I am pointing at)

Through the Amazon Jungle....

Above the cloud forests....

At times it was so beautiful all you could do was put your hands up....

Exhausted after reaching an Archaeological sight....

Sure enough, I was camping in the land of the Inca....

More Archaeological sights along the way....

Could you build a house, a city, on the side of mountain and have it last over 500 years!?

I would guesstimate that for abut 92% of the trail if you fell off the side, it would be certain death. You would either fall thousands of feet off a mountain, tumble uncontrollably down a steep hillside, or fall into class four rapids in the river below. Fortunately for me, I only fell about 8 feet.

I suffered some minor scrapes and cuts, but the most damage was done to my ego. I landed on vines and branches that prevented a fall off the side of the mountain. Lucky to say the least!

This is a picture of me over the side of the trail laughing at myself, waiting to get pulled back up.

The morning of the 4th day the porters woke everyone up for ¨"tent service" with tea at 4am. Breakfast was at 4:30am, and we are off for the final 2 hours of the trek to Machu Picchu at 5am. The last 2 hours was all up hill and it was a race against dawn to make it to the Sun Gate before the Sun did. Watching the sun rise over the last peak and shine through the sun gate onto Machu Picchu was incredible. We had made it, and began our descent into the lost city.

A view of Machu Picchu city from Wayna Picchu Mountain, the sharp peak in the background of the next two pictures.

Machu Picchu city and Wayna Picchu Mountain. (the big peak in the background)

Machu Picchu city was discovered by Hiram Binham in 1911, an American who was looking for Vilcamamba, the last stronghold of the Inca´s, which was supposed to have untold amounts of gold and silver treasure. However, the remains of Vilcamamba are actually much further in the jungle and were found without any treasure.

Leading theories for Machu Picchu claim the city was both a home for the Nobel educated class, and as an outpost for conquering the nearby jungle. However, the city was abandoned and with it all evidence for it´s exact function. An estimated 500-1000 people lived in the city, based on the amount of the houses and terraces for supplying food.

Machu Pichu was never found by the Spanish, and thus remains in remarkable condition. It was abandoned as the Spanish advanced into the Sacred Valley, but houses, storage buildings for crops, temples, sun dials, and much much more are all still present. A small quarry still exists in the city as further evidence that the city was still being constructed.

Doing a little heavy lifting in the quarry.

A picture from inside the city.

Descending into the city after four days of hard work was amazing. Being inside the city you could feel a certain energy, it´s hard to describe but it´s a happiness in your heart, a smile on your face, and buzzing in your soul.

Over Due Post

2008-12-14T08:56:00.000-08:00

Puno:

Lago Titicaca is the seconds highest navigable lake in the world and the largest lake in South America. The lake is the birthplace of the first Inca´s and it seemed a fitting place to visit before heading to Cusco and the Sacred Valley.

A cradle for early civilizations, the Pukara people settled in Puno and on Lago Titicaca in 200 B.C. and it has been inhabited ever since. The Uros culture lived on the shores of the lake in pre Incan times, and in an effort to escape the Inca´s created floating islands out in the lake made of reeds that grow in and around the lake. The culture constructed hundreds of floating reed islands where they also built their houses, schools, stores, boats, and clothes all out of the reeds. The islands are continually rotting and sinking, thus a top layer of reeds is added weekly. I took a boat out to the Islands to experience them first hand, and have never seen anything like it. They are all connected by ropes and anchors and the people have removed the reeds in the middle of the islands to create mini fisheries for food. It was crazy.

Sillustani:

30 minutes from Puno, nestled high on a peninsula above Lago Umayo massive funerary towers were constructed to house the most important Incan royalty on their way to the next world. Over 36 feet tall, the cylindrical structures are an engineering mystery. Archaeologists have been trying to rebuild and duplicate similar structures, using today's technology, without success. The pieces of rock are too big, the structures too high, and the quarry too distant to transport the rocks.

Cusco:

I have settled in Cusco. The closer I got, the less I could resist is magnetic pull. And once I arrived, I immediately knew why. It is a magical city with endless ruins, markets, and museums to explore during the day, and parties every night of the week until sunrise.

After much haggling, I negotiated a room for a month for $100 and have been enjoying having my bag unpacked and a place to call home for more than a few days at a time. Cusco is full of old Incan fortresses, temples, and ruins of a lost time, suffice it to say they are all amazing and awe inspiring and it is beyond me to give them all due descriptions.

Here I am happy and with a full beard in Cusco.

Unexplained mysteries....

2008-12-06T15:08:00.000-08:00

Thousands of miles into the desert the small town of Nazca exists for only one reason, to provide a place for visitors to the mysterious Nazca lines to sleep, eat, and leave.

Spread across over 500 kilometers of desert, with over 800 straight lines, 300 geometric figures, and 70 plant and animal drawings the lines encompass a huge area. So many of the lines overlap, intersect, and are of such huge proportion, they cannot be viewed from the ground. Only when seen from above can one interpret the striking network of shapes, animals, channels, and figures that all seem to radiate from a central starting point. The animal and humanoid shapes are sketched into the sand using one continuous line, as though the artist never picked up their pencil from the desert floor, despite the fact that some of the designs are kilometers long, and the triangles and shapes make perfect right angled triangles, rectangles, or perfect straight lines running kilometers through the desert.

Questions are abundant, where as agreed up explanations are harder to come by.

Why would a culture go through such extravagant means to create such intricate designs when they could not see them to appreciate them and, they could not see what they were doing. Without being able to look down on you´re canvass, it seems impossible to make such perfect creations.

When were they created? Estimates range from 900 B.C. to who knows. Radiocarbon dating proves the Nazca people lived at the same time the lines existed, but provides no prove they actually constructed them. Many theorists suggest the Nazca people were as baffled as present day scholars.

Why were they created? Theories range from an advanced astronomical implication, to offerings to the God´s, to even a landing strip for Extraterrestrials. (Notice the drawing on the rock. Alien, or just a dude with a big head?)

In any event, they remain one of the greatest archaeological mysteries in the world.

Many of the Andean peoples myths and legends suggest an ancient civilization, pre Inca, pre everything, that lived in what is now Peru and Bolivia thousands of years ago. This was a civilization made up of giants, which one finds oneself believing after viewing the massive rocks and stones used for construction of ruins littered all over Peru and Bolivia. No ordinary person, or even persons could move such huge stones such large distances. Could they? Does a civilization of giants explain the Nazca lines?

Proof for an ancient civilization much older than leading theories suggest is said to lie in a desert isolated high in the mountains. I was on the next bus...

I got off the bus in a very small town, compass and map handy and began walking away from what little civilization the town provided. Armed with sunscreen, water, and insect repellent I began hiking into the desert. 30 minutes later I was above the town looking down at endless fields of rice and corn. I turned back and continued hiking further into the desert, eventually reaching a stone structure indicating the path had ended. I was confused, where were the special stones. Had I come all this way for nothing? In fact, what was I even looking for. I surveyed my surroundings, I was in a bit of a valley between small mountains, with rocks, of all sizes, as far as I could I see.

I took a closer look at a large rock before me. Amazed at what I saw, I looked again at my surroundings, but this time with bewilderment. Everyone of these thousands of rocks, spread over several kilometers, some as small as a soccer ball, others as large as houses, were covered with petroglyphs! Carved drawings of people, animals, plants, birds.

Best guesses date the site at 1200 years old. In reality, no one knows who or why the site was constructed. As I walked around exploring the carvings, I couldn't help but be reminded of the lines in Nazca. The carvings were small ( especially for giants) but what was really interesting was the scale of the humans with the animals, suggesting humans were as large or larger than the animals. Speaking of animals, dinosaurs and other currently extinct animals were drawn! Does this suggest the culture that created this site lived at the time of these animals, or equally as far fetched, somehow they had knowledge of animals thousands of years extinct.

Hmm. Interesting, no?

To the roof of the world and back...

2008-12-03T15:34:00.000-08:00

It´s impossible not to see El Misti from everywhere in Arequipa. It looms over the East side of the city, only 17 kilometers away, it is a towering presence that´s impossible to look at without thinking to ones self, I wonder what the world looks like from up there.

At the summit, looking down into the active crater stands a cross ten meters tall, suggesting making it that far would require additional help.
At over 19, 133 feet, about 5,000 feet higher than the tallest Mountain in the Continental USA (Mount Whitney, CA) El Misti is a true test of skill, endurance, and what I would soon find out, will power.

As the 4x4 drove off in the other direction, and my guide starting walking towards the hulking presence that now took up my entire field of vision, I felt confident and excited, not a problem I said to myself. Yeah, right.

After 6 hours of hiking up- over, rocks, sand, and through volcanic ash, we arrived at base camp. We had made good time, so we pushed for the higher of the two base camps at 15,748 feet, we were already higher than Mount Rainer, Washington´s highest peak and that much closer to the summit the following morning. I felt good, we had kept a steady pace, and I had consumed an equally steady pace of coca leave products, as I knew altitude sickness would be my worst enemy, 7 out of 10 mountaineers who attempt El Misti experience it and don´t make it past base camp.

The sun sets early in the mountains, and we ate a quick meal of of spaghetti and coca de mate tea around 6pm, before taking refuge in our tent and sleeping bags. At 15k feet, without the sun, the temperature drops fast and I quickly layered up for the night. I expected to fall fast asleep, as both my body and my mind were exhausted from the day´s climb. It wasen´t to be though, as my Nemesis, altitude sickness began to take effect.

I knew I needed a good nights sleep for the assault on the summit the following morning, and the more I tried to will myself to sleep, the less likely it was to happen. It was below freezing outside, but I stripped down to one pair of pants and a t-shirt and lay on top of my sleeping bag as I battled the fever that had now taken over my body. I tossed and turned restlessly, listening to my guide sleep peacefully next to me, and the family of fox´s that had a taken interest in our tent. I could not have slept for more than 15 mins at a time and a total of two hours all night. My headache was getting worse and I knew I was running out of time. We needed to get started.

At 3:15am, my guide made me a special tea, and lacking an appetite he forced me to choke down a piece of bread with jam. We stepped out of the tent and into a movie, the entire city lay illuminated in the darkness straight down below us, and to our left a stream of light was breaching the horizon. The sun was on it´s way, and feeling slightly better, so were we.

As we left our ice covered tent behind, the true accent began. Life was no longer present at this altitude, where as before moss covered boulders or reeds growing out of the sand provided proof that life was meant to exist, here there was none. The freezing wind, lack of water, and bitter cold at this height are not meant to support life, and I felt those facts all the way to my bones. I pushed hard for the first hour, and we made solid progress. Only 4 more to go I said to myself.

I don´t know when or where exactly it happened, but I could no longer breathe. It wasen´t the headache or drowsy feeling from the altitude sickness, it was something different. There was no oxygen in the air. I panicked for a moment, but turned around sat on a rock and watched the city slowly wake up and the sun rise. After a couple of minutes, I had my breath back, but it would be a long time before I could breathe normally again.

The lack of oxygen didn´t just effect my lungs, but my whole body. I no longer had oxygen for my muscles in my legs, or for my brain to work properly. I could only answer the guides questions in one word answers, or with a thumbs up. Both were always lies. I couldn't´t take more than 10 steps without losing my breath. I was fighting for every breath. And so it went, ten baby steps up, sit down for 30 seconds to catch my breath, and on and on the process went. Somehow the minutes turned to hours and we were actually making progress.

We were still an hour from the top and I was ready to quit. 10 steps had turned to 5 before needing a break, and I had begun falling asleep while sitting down to catch my breath, which was making me nervous. I was scared I wasen´t going to be able to make it. The guide was telling me we were making good time, and to continue to rest as needed. It wasen´t possible though, I wanted hot chocolate, a sauna, and a bed, not an extra five minutes of rest on the side of what felt like the moon. Incredibly, and I think this is because the lack of oxygen had rendered me stupid, after each rest I would continue to stand, and walk up towards the summit. Each time I was literally surprised.

After 5 grueling, without a doubt most challenging hours of my entire life, we crested the summit. I iimmediately laid down and took a 30 minute nap. I was a zombie, but the views were ridiculous. We were on top of the world. We explored the summit for a while, took some pictures, but I needed to get to lower altitudes, as I still couldn't speak in complete sentences and the wind on the summit was surely of hurricane force.

From past eruptions, huge alley ways lead straight down the mountain covered 2-3 feet deep in soft volcanic ash. This was our route down, as we ran, slid, and slipped our way straight down the mountain. I was greeted at base camp with a clear head, an incredible hunger, and to my surprise a gigantic rainbow circling the sun. It was a beautiful site, and capped a beautiful experience.

To the center of the Earth and back....

2008-11-23T10:29:00.000-08:00

I left the mystery and magic of the Nazca lines and the dessert behind and boarded an all night bus for Arequipa, Peru´s second largest city, which sit´s nestled below the dominate peaks of active volcanoes. Already at 10,000 feet, I was eager to move higher, and soon boarded another bus to take me deeper into the mountains, where 12,000-12,500 foot peaks drop dramatically into the deepest canyon in the world. (The Canyon De Cola is twice as big as the Grand Canyon).

I shrugged off the guided tours and the suggested itineraries, and supplied with energy bars, my map, water purification tablets, Ritz, a Peruvian version of Oreos, and a backpack that was wayyyyyy to heavy, set off into the wild to explore.

The mountains came out swinging straight from gate, I caught a right hook to the face: altitude sickness. Loss of appetite, insomnia, and a headache that made my brain feel like mush. 12 hours later, I was back on my feet, and with a mouthful of coca leaves was feeling better that ever. I began my descent into the canyon among the most amazing views I have ever seen. Huge mountain peaks dropping forever into the valley below, where the River twisted and turned its way through the canyon, daring me to get closer. The minutes turned to hours and the meters turned to kilometers as I worked my way down to the canyon floor. Soaring condors with 10 foot wing spans were my only companions as the canyon floor came into view.

5 hours later I reached my first destination on the canyon floor, and every blister inducing step down was worth it. I cooled my aching legs and back in the river, and then relaxed further in the natural hot springs on the rivers edge. Back and forth I went, cooling off in the icy river, and climbing out of the river and into mineral rich hot springs. As the sun slid behind the peaks I had descended I lay down my sleeping bag, and watched as more stars than I believed existed, filled the sky. I was not sleeping under the stars, but I was among them. The stars filled the sky to such an extreme, it was unbelievable. The shooting stars were so bright, and close, I could seem them even when my eyes were closed. It was incredible.

I spent the next 4 days pushing deeper into the canyon, fighting off more punches from the mountain, sunburn through my shirt, epic blisters, heat exhaustion. My calf's and quads begged for mercy as I pushed up another crest for a view of a new waterfall or gyser. Water was scarce and was my one true concern. Whenever I would find a creek, river, or stream, I would stop to rest. Drink what was left in my water bottle, if there was anything, and refill it with the new water and treat it with the purification tablets. In some cases, where I had gone miles without finding water, I would wait the mandatory 35 mins before drinking the water, drink it all, and then do the treatment process all over again.

The last night in the canyon, I stayed at a posada at the rivers edge. I spent the late afternoon in the river, relaxing, enjoying the magic of the views, and watching the incredible effectiveness of the local fishermen's home made nets. That night I enjoyed the fruits of their labor with my first meal in 4 days, fresh, and I mean FRESH caught trout from the river. It has never tasted so good.

Up at dawn, I spent the next 8 hours hiking back up the from canyon. Past still used Inca terracing, past endless pastures of corn, and up endless kilometers of mountain I trekked. My calf's and quads got tired of being tired and simply stopped being sore, when I thought I couldn´t go another step without water, I found a stream, and when I lost the path, I found a new one. When I looked down at where I had been, and now where I was, a great feeling of pride washed over me and I limped back into town with a smile on my face.

Bus Drivers Recieve Commission?

2008-11-05T16:14:00.001-08:00

Imagine a small mini van, converted into a quasi taxi, where metal bars line the ceiling as makeshift hand rails, and additional seats have been stripped from dead cars and strapped into the back using wire, and in some cases duct tape. The sliding door is manned by an individual who will convince anyone that, "Yes, this is the right taxi" and usher you in. His head is either permentantly out the window yelling out our bus number and destination to people standing or walking on the street. Or he is hanging out the door, doing the same. Either way, he clearly receives a % of the fare for every traveler, and convinces more people than you think is possible onto the bus. I have taken several bus rides at this point, nd have come to the conclusion that no acual bus stops exsist. Meaning, we are liable to pull over and yell at people walking or standing at any time, attemepting to get them on the bus-which ussualy happens. I will update this post when I get to an internet cafe that allows me to upload pictures. My first meal included a quarter pound whole chicken, salad, and more fries than you thought possible to fit on a plate. Oh, and an Inca Cola to wash it down. Total cost, $2.50.

Destination unknown

2008-11-05T16:04:00.000-08:00

11/3/08 6:15pm

I´m on the train from SD to LAX right now, my journey has begun. Ipod in, feet up, and watching the miles fly by out the window. It´s dark outside, so I can´t see where Im going, but it´s fitting, because I don´t know there this trip will take me either. Like the train ride, I know it´s destination, but what I will see, who I will meet, and what I will experince all remain to be discovered, and won´t be found on maps.

The world is a book and those who do not travel only read one page...

2008-11-02T18:27:00.000-08:00

The countdown has reached zero, preparations are complete, and tomorrow evening I board a plane for Lima, Peru. I have left everyone I know and the majority of everything I own behind as I begin my search for my personal legend in the South of America. I hope to use this blog as a record of my travels, experiences, and a medium for keeping in touch with all my friends and loved ones, as visits to places with Internet access will hopefully be few and far between. Beginning tomorrow, Microsoft Outlook, the monthly gross, and daily grind will come to a halt, replaced with travel, adventure, excitement, and not knowing what to expect when I get off the next bus.... With love, Ian